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BANDARAWELA

Typical entries in guide books over the years describe Bandarawela as
"charming if unspectacular" and even "the most popular hill station after Nuwara Eliya… favoured by those who find Nuwura Eliya too cold" Nuwara Eliya's popularity is Bandarawela's gain. The streets are not thronged with tourists, either domestic or foreign. It is an unhurried, unpretentious place, an upcountry town that exists to supply the needs of plantation workers, farmers and its hard-working inhabitants. It cares not a fig for tourists and no touts pester visitors, as they do in Nuwara Eliya. And it has, at 1,230m (2,036ft) above sea level, a much better climate than its more fashionable neighbour

Approach Bandarawela, as I did, along the splendid A4 highway from Ratnapura and then Haputale, and the flavour of the town gradually becomes apparent. Outside Haputale, that town's post office is prominent not just because of its hillside view but also because of its round, colonial George VI pillar box, painted in traditional post office red. The hillsides are pleated with housing schemes, vegetable plots and tea gardens. Then the road, after cresting the cantonment of Diyatalawa, swoops into the town.

It runs below the railway station and gives a glimpse of the 1920s in its roof's serial wooden canopies. Until 9M the station was the terminus for the hill country line, which now reaches deep into Uva to terminate at Badulla. There are two trains a day, and two
night mails, linking Bandarawela with Colombo,

There is a tunnel under the railway track for passengers to gain walking access to the town, and that's where - at its exit - three-wheelers are gathered. But it's an easy town for walking through without working up a sweat, made more interesting by its undulating streets, The town's centre, marked by an intersection of roads and a gentle mix up of traffic and pedestrians, is a few minutes walk up hill
.
Turn left and the remnant of a colonial post office commands a view over the street. As if to exert its individuality, outside it the pillar boxes are square and painted blue (for airmail), green (local) and red (out stations) .The building itself is neatly painted and preserves Its dignity despite the modern additions around it

Opposite, across the road, a department store of last century vintage has been modernised into a supermarket, yet within its venerable building a wooden minstrel's gallery and long, teak counter still remain.

As one would expect in a town that boomed with the coming of the railway line formed through the hills from Nanu Oya in 1894, Bandarawela has a rest house in one of the best locations, overlooking the town. It has preserved an odd garden with hedged arches rnarking its entrance. There are a few bungalow-style galow-style uses but the hotel of note, itself the best reason for visiting the town, is the Bandarawela, 110 years old but with a comfortable image of the 1950s.

It stands above the bustle of the town hut within convenient reach of Main Street where the town's bazaar-like shopping area conducts business in a leisurely way. Since lorry’s awaiting loads park on one side, walking down the road need care. Triple storey building are bright with bunting, which turns out to be an array of textiles fluttering like flags in the breeze. Displays of colorful saris give way to shops crammed with items for the village homestead, like stone spice grinders and wooden coconut scrapers, and mammoth pots of every conceivable shape and kind, metal and clay Probably everything a villager would ever need could be obtained in this street of curiosities.

The street gradually merges with the main road to Badulla. But a lower, parallel road leads hack to the central clock tower. On a fence around the tower is a huge- notice depicting 'Regulatory Road Signs' including 'Priority Signs' and 'Mandatory Signs' – traffic sins; each caption ed in three languages- It's easy to imagine the local drivers and inhabitants are law-abiding citizens. It is refreshing, as a visitor, to he able to walk around the town without being hassled or eyed by shifty loiterers.

Because of its location, Bandarawela benefits from both the northeast (November to January) and southwest monsoon, plus being dry, even to drought, in July and August. The climate is governed by those monsoons and the rain keeps the hills, slopes and
valleys green while the zest of the Uva breezes keeps sunny days from being oppressive. It's an invigorating climate, spring-like : good for plants, good for people .It's good for tea, too. Tea plucked from this area at this time of the year is supposed to have a special flavour, unmatched by any other.

The history' of Uva did not start with tea. Uva is the land where Ravana of legend, the Emperor of Lanka, lived many years with his beloved Sita, stolen from her husband, the
god Rama. Sacred trees and sites enliven the scene; there are Buddhist ancient sites within reach, like the Dowe Rock Temple with its earning of Buddha on the sheer rock face. Ella with its magnificent viewpoint is only 12km away. Picnic trips can be made to tea estate landmarks like Pilkington's Point and Lipton's Seat.

Bandarawela is an ideal place for seeing a lot more of Sri Lanka than one expects. It's on the road southwards to Yala, and World's End is a day trip away, As a town that depends
on its own industry, not tourists, for survival, Bandarawela is also good for seeing Sri Lankan lifestyle in harmonious action. The town's population is mixed, with a Buddhist temple, a Hindu kovil, a Catholic church and a Muslim mosque in close proximity' to each other.

Whenever I visit the town I begin to think that, having come so far, why not linger a little longer? One day I will. Bandarawela has road links with Colombo via Ratnapura
or Nuwara Eliya. with the east coast via Badulla, and with the west coast via Wellawaya and Tissamaharama. Good accommodation is available at the Bandarawela Hotel, and good tea can be bought at the Bandarawela MlesnaTea Centre.


 


 




 
   
   
   
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