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BANDARAWELA
Typical entries in guide books over the years describe Bandarawela
as
"charming if unspectacular" and even "the most
popular hill station after Nuwara Eliya… favoured by those
who find Nuwura Eliya too cold" Nuwara Eliya's popularity
is Bandarawela's gain. The streets are not thronged with tourists,
either domestic or foreign. It is an unhurried, unpretentious
place, an upcountry town that exists to supply the needs of
plantation workers, farmers and its hard-working inhabitants.
It cares not a fig for tourists and no touts pester visitors,
as they do in Nuwara Eliya. And it has, at 1,230m (2,036ft)
above sea level, a much better climate than its more fashionable
neighbour
Approach Bandarawela, as I did, along the splendid A4 highway
from Ratnapura and then Haputale, and the flavour of the town
gradually becomes apparent. Outside Haputale, that town's post
office is prominent not just because of its hillside view but
also because of its round, colonial George VI pillar box, painted
in traditional post office red. The hillsides are pleated with
housing schemes, vegetable plots and tea gardens. Then the road,
after cresting the cantonment of Diyatalawa, swoops into the
town.
It runs below the railway station and gives a glimpse of
the 1920s in its roof's serial wooden canopies. Until 9M the
station was the terminus for the hill country line, which
now reaches deep into Uva to terminate at Badulla. There are
two trains a day, and two
night mails, linking Bandarawela with Colombo,
There is a tunnel under the railway track for passengers
to gain walking access to the town, and that's where - at
its exit - three-wheelers are gathered. But it's an easy town
for walking through without working up a sweat, made more
interesting by its undulating streets, The town's centre,
marked by an intersection of roads and a gentle mix up of
traffic and pedestrians, is a few minutes walk up hill
.
Turn left and the remnant of a colonial post office commands
a view over the street. As if to exert its individuality,
outside it the pillar boxes are square and painted blue (for
airmail), green (local) and red (out stations) .The building
itself is neatly painted and preserves Its dignity despite
the modern additions around it
Opposite, across the road, a department store of last century
vintage has been modernised into a supermarket, yet within
its venerable building a wooden minstrel's gallery and long,
teak counter still remain.
As one would expect in a town that boomed with the coming
of the railway line formed through the hills from Nanu Oya
in 1894, Bandarawela has a rest house in one of the best locations,
overlooking the town. It has preserved an odd garden with
hedged arches rnarking its entrance. There are a few bungalow-style
galow-style uses but the hotel of note, itself the best reason
for visiting the town, is the Bandarawela, 110 years old but
with a comfortable image of the 1950s.
It stands above the bustle of the town hut within convenient
reach of Main Street where the town's bazaar-like shopping
area conducts business in a leisurely way. Since lorry’s
awaiting loads park on one side, walking down the road need
care. Triple storey building are bright with bunting, which
turns out to be an array of textiles fluttering like flags
in the breeze. Displays of colorful saris give way to shops
crammed with items for the village homestead, like stone spice
grinders and wooden coconut scrapers, and mammoth pots of
every conceivable shape and kind, metal and clay Probably
everything a villager would ever need could be obtained in
this street of curiosities.
The street gradually merges with the main road to Badulla.
But a lower, parallel road leads hack to the central clock
tower. On a fence around the tower is a huge- notice depicting
'Regulatory Road Signs' including 'Priority Signs' and 'Mandatory
Signs' – traffic sins; each caption ed in three languages-
It's easy to imagine the local drivers and inhabitants are
law-abiding citizens. It is refreshing, as a visitor, to he
able to walk around the town without being hassled or eyed
by shifty loiterers.
Because of its location, Bandarawela benefits from both the
northeast (November to January) and southwest monsoon, plus
being dry, even to drought, in July and August. The climate
is governed by those monsoons and the rain keeps the hills,
slopes and
valleys green while the zest of the Uva breezes keeps sunny
days from being oppressive. It's an invigorating climate,
spring-like : good for plants, good for people .It's good
for tea, too. Tea plucked from this area at this time of the
year is supposed to have a special flavour, unmatched by any
other.
The history' of Uva did not start with tea. Uva is the land
where Ravana of legend, the Emperor of Lanka, lived many years
with his beloved Sita, stolen from her husband, the
god Rama. Sacred trees and sites enliven the scene; there
are Buddhist ancient sites within reach, like the Dowe Rock
Temple with its earning of Buddha on the sheer rock face.
Ella with its magnificent viewpoint is only 12km away. Picnic
trips can be made to tea estate landmarks like Pilkington's
Point and Lipton's Seat.
Bandarawela is an ideal place for seeing a lot more of Sri
Lanka than one expects. It's on the road southwards to Yala,
and World's End is a day trip away, As a town that depends
on its own industry, not tourists, for survival, Bandarawela
is also good for seeing Sri Lankan lifestyle in harmonious
action. The town's population is mixed, with a Buddhist temple,
a Hindu kovil, a Catholic church and a Muslim mosque in close
proximity' to each other.
Whenever I visit the town I begin to think that, having come
so far, why not linger a little longer? One day I will. Bandarawela
has road links with Colombo via Ratnapura
or Nuwara Eliya. with the east coast via Badulla, and with
the west coast via Wellawaya and Tissamaharama. Good accommodation
is available at the Bandarawela Hotel, and good tea can be
bought at the Bandarawela MlesnaTea Centre.
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